Friday, August 26, 2011

The Beautiful Market

I'm not very bold, so I didn't take pictures of the beautiful, bright eyed fish or the tiny, plucked partridge bodies at the market this morning. It seemed that I ought to buy something to earn photo privileges--and I'm not up to it yet. So far, I haven't bought anything but fruit and vegetables at the market. I have very little French and wouldn't know how to cook much of what I see at the market. Hopefully time and lesson (in both French and in cooking) will change that,

What I'm really intrigued by are the meat, fish, and cheese stalls. The market we visited this morning in Orsay-Ville (not the neighborhood market we usually visit) had at least three different meat stalls, a stall devoted entirely to poultry, and several for fish. Much of the merchandise was terribly exotic. There were cows tongues, meats mixed with gelatin, mysterious sausages, and what must have been entrails. There were innumerable cheeses with colorful rinds--the only ones I recognized were Camenbert and goat. The poultry counter had tiny game birds that were only partially plucked and looked like they'd provide only two or three tablespoons of meat. The fish counter was a revelation--"so that's what a turbot looks like." It was rather grisly, but also beautiful. We are carnivores after all, and it makes sense that all this artfully arranged carnage should awaken the appetite. I hope that someday soon I'll take home a rabbit or a duck complete with head and feet. I bet it would make a wonderful soup....

Thursday, August 25, 2011

We Want Metric!

Yesterday we had our first appointment at the hospital in Orsay. It all went swimmingly, and reinforced our appreciation for French hospitality!

To give a bit of background: Donnie contacted the hospital more than a week ago to ask what we needed to get started. They said that they would send us a registration package. Well, a week passed and no package arrived. Finally, yesterday morning, Donnie was able to get past the hospital answering system and talk with a person. When this person heard how soon Baby is set to arrive, she cried "Oh la la" and immediately got us an appointment for the afternoon. Donnie heard her laughing as she made the arrangements. We've been terribly nervous about jumping into French healthcare so late in the pregnancy, and it was welcome to hear laughter instead of scolding (or, worse yet, a refusal to take us)!

We arrived at the hospital not sure what would be in store. We knew we had to get registered, which consisted of giving a clerk our contact information and telling her that we're not yet signed up for social security. She didn't make any fuss about this, which was a great relief.

Then it was off to the maternity ward where we met the cheerful secretary who was undoubtedly the one who was laughing while making us our appointment. She was very patient and explained things slowly and threw in a bit of English where she could. She also arranged a Monday appointment to meet an anesthetist (it's standard to meet with an anesthetist whether or not you want a natural birth--they want to make sure they can give you an epidural if they need to). At this point, we began to walk out, thinking we had finished our mission--luckily, the secretary saw us,and asked where we were going. Not only was this a registration appointment, but I'd get to see a doctor as well.

Our doctor was actually an intern and looked about 18 years old to me, but she was perfectly professional, friendly and again, very patient. She had a mobile, expressive face--a kind of face that seems more common in France. We went through the file that Magee had given us and translated the information into our new Orsay file. The doctor understood some English and invited me to speak English to her. She even apologized that her English wasn't better! The process took quite a while--I don't think I've ever had a doctor spend that much time with me! It turned out that the conversion to metric was a bit of a stumbling block. We couldn't remember the conversion of feet to centimeters and were pretty iffy on the pounds to kilogram conversion. Our new smart phones weren't much help because we didn't have reception. Finally, we arrived at some numbers that seemed right and the doctor made arrangements for me to get some blood work done and a third ultrasound to determine the baby's weight and size. Then there was the examination, which we went very smoothly with only a few translation hiccups. The great news is that Louisa is head down and all appears to be well.

After the appointment, giddy with relief, Donnie and I went to the grocery store and bought beer and juice to celebrate.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Notes




Last Sunday I finished my first knitting project. It's a collar for Maria to wear in lieu of a scarf. (Those little scarfs do get awfully tight around little necks!) I'm grateful that it turned out to be a wearable garments. There were moments when I thought I probably out to unravel it and start again. When I started, I was in a bit of a frenzy to make something and didn't consult any patterns or instructions. I did most of it in the stockinette stitch, which means that the edges are all bumpy, but I think it ended up working.

There's a little loop of elastic that goes around the button flower and holds it together.

My friend Eva taught me how to cast on, knit, and purl---I'm indebted to her for starting me in what will hopefully become a lifelong hobby. By the way, Eva gave birth to a beautiful baby boy about 12 hours before these pictures were taken. Little Conor is destined for a well-dressed life wearing his mama's beautiful knitting!


Sunday evening, we had Moirin and the Wrights over for dinner. Dinner was grilled flank steak with homemade flatbread with green chutney.

I have little expertise in dealing with large cuts of meat (for budget reasons, we usually stick to chicken thighs and ground beef), but there's a marinade recipe that I'm very fond of. The marinate is a bright green and has a wonderful tangy, herby smell. It makes the preparation almost as pleasurable as the eating!

On Monday, Maria and I joined Lynn and Gracie for some strawberry picking. The strawberries were pretty sparse--we filled about half of the containers we took before the girls needed to stop--but they were oh so sweet and delicately textured. It was hard work, but very satisfying. Berry picking is such a wonderful summer rite! I'm grateful that Lynn asked us along. It was a long trip and we wouldn't have done it on our own.

A little update on Maria. She's been doing a lot of talking. Lately, she has been particularly enthusiastic about the words "button" and "bottle." She's been stringing words together and forming questions "Where da choo choo ball?" (she has a ball with Thomas the Tank Engine on it), and likes pointing out when something is wet ("Mama hand all wet"= Mama's hands are all wet) or finished ("Dada bre all done" = Dad is all done with his food). She's also gotten pretty good at jumping. Now, when she's particularly happy about something, she'll give a little hop to express her pleasure. It's such a joy to see these little developments!

Friday, June 24, 2011

Our Fourth Anniversary

Yesterday was our fourth anniversary. It turned into quite a holiday!

The truth is that Donnie and I find it difficult to plan personal celebrations--especially date-type celebrations. We're much better at the impromptu fete. I used to think this just meant that we were an unfussy, low-maintenance couple. But after a couple of years, I've come to realize that planning for these little milestones--birthdays, anniversaries, even the odd Valentine's day--is important. If you stop paying attention to them, time begins to look like one long undifferentiated stretch--and that feeling can lead people to do all kinds of silly things!

We decided a few weeks back to copy our friends the Waleses and adopt the traditional list of anniversary gifts. The list provides an extra measure of structure and inspiration for those of us who find it difficult to find something new to do every year. The fourth year anniversary gift is fruit or flowers (under the UK list) or silk and fine linen (under the US list). We opted for the fruit or flowers, in part because I didn't think Donnie needed another tie.

Our plan was to go out for breakfast and then meet at the Phipps Botanical Garden in the afternoon for some tea, and a flower viewing stroll. We went for breakfast at the new Pamela's on Murray. The space is beautiful--they're new gallery provided enough people--watching opportunities to keep Maria fully entertained. The food was good too, and came in heaping quantities.

As my gift for Donnie, I spent much of the day making my version of a German fruit-topped cake. (It's a layer of vanilla cake covered with pudding, covered with fruit, covered with gelatin.) My plan was to bring this cake to the Phipps to have with our tea. We'll, I didn't plan sufficiently for cooling time, so 3:30 rolled around and the kitchen was still a mess, and the gelatin on top of the cake no where near solidified. I called Donnie and he suggested that we skip the Phipps and that way he could come home early for the tea, and then he and I would go out in the evening.

The afternoon unfurled quite beautifully.





Donnie's gift to me was a beautiful peridot-colored, linen scarf with flowers on it (notice he managed to include the UK and the US gift in this one present). I've been a bit obsessed with linen since reading Women's Work and discovering it's amazing moisture wicking . It's also so very chic and European to wear a summer scarf!



We put Maria down to sleep and our dear friend Lynn came over to keep watch. Donnie and I headed to the Southside. It was one of those scrumptious summer evenings when the sky reminds you of sherbert. After a delicious dinner at McCormick and Schmidt's (the baby needed a little seafood :), we went to see Midnight in Paris. We both thoroughly enjoyed the movie, and it was certainly exciting to see the city that will be our new home!

It was a decadent, lovely and memorable anniversary!

Monday, June 13, 2011

A Good Day

I want to quickly jot down some of the events of the day---because it was a lovely day and I don't want to forget it.

Maria has been particularly lovable lately, and this morning she was particularly good. We got to Mass a little late, but we were able to stand at the back of the chapel (not in the vestibule or lobby), so hearing Mass wasn't a problem. Since I didn't have Donnie with me, I opted not to take the kind offers of seats. Maria is such an avid climber now, that sitting in the pews takes as much energy as standing--she climbs all over the chair and kneeler, and inevitably wanders out into the aisle. (Not that I think any of that is "bad" behavior. I think it best to allow young children plenty of latitude at church, provided it stays fairly safe, quiet, and happy. It's just a little taxing for a single caretaker to be juggling a little climber during Mass).

Maria was very good and amused herself by playing with her shoe (and my shoes) and snack cup, arranging them on the kneeler then returning them to the diaper bag, then putting them back on the kneeler (like a little housewife trying to figure out the proper arrangments of knickknacks on a shelf). She also sang heartily with the hymns and chants. She's been very enthusiastic about saying "hello" and "bye bye" lately, so some of the singing was just "hello, hello, hello"--somehow appropriate on Pentecost. When the organ came in with the exit hymn, Maria knew what was going on, and said "all done." She remained in remarkably good humor during Donuts.

In the afternoon, we video chatted with Donnie. Here's the momentous news (my child being good really isn't momentous news, though it is a great joy). He went to look at apartments, and decided the cheaper one is definitely the better fit. Apparently the pictures the landlady sent don't do it justice--it feels bigger than it looked in the pictures. The apartment was being painted and refurbished when his visited, so the shabby wallpaper will not be there when we arrive. It also turns out that the apartment has a full bathroom and a half-bath--unexpected and certainly nice for having guests. Also, the shared laundry isn't coin or card operated, and it's so close that he says it feels like another part of the apartment. Also, the Orsay apartment in within walking distance of a train station and grocery store. It's also within walking distance of his work!

Best of all, the place is rolling with kids---Donnie's words were "piles of kids." And the backyard is an actual park complete with swing set, sand box, and fruit trees.

Donnie's only major reservation was that the kitchen is very small and doesn't have a real oven (it has a toaster oven) or dishwasher. I'm confident we can manage though--we'll have to adjust the way we eat and use dishes, but that will probably be a good experience for us.

I'm so relieved to know where we're going to live and feel especially blessed at how reasonably priced and kid-friendly it is! I've been worried about money in France, with the higher cost of living, etc, but now it feels much more like things will work out and that we'll be comfortable. In fact, I'm certain Maria will feel it's a big step up being in the same building with so many little people.

After that conversation, we had dinner. Maria ate chicken and ice chips (she pinched her finger during the gchat, so I gave her some ice chips to play with--it's the new cure-all), and related to me the story of her hurt finger and how she now had an "iiiiiiiice bol." She's been practicing talking so much. Much of it is unintelligible, but sometimes I can figure it out, and it's wonderful.

After dinner, my mother-in-law called and we had a great conversation.

Then Maria and I went out. It was a fine evening--very cool with a good wind. The trees and plants are so lush right now, and there are so many beautiful flowers. There must be many talented gardeners in our area. On evenings like this one, I feel like there's no place more beautiful than Squirrel Hill. We went to the Bartlett playground. Sure enough, there were other kids out for pre-bedtime play.

Maria showed off some new skills at the playground. For one, she climbed up the slide. I had to help her a bit, but for the most part, she got up it on her own strength. She also showed me that she could climb some of the ladders. As I said, she's be climbing more, but I hadn't realized just how much stronger and more confident she's become over the last week.

When it was time to go, Maria put up very little fuss and waved "bye bye" to the playground as we strolled away.

Anyway, I've gone on longer than I wanted. Just wanted to say that I've felt incredibly blessed today. My anxiety about the move is turning into excitement, and Maria is at such an eventful age--life is so very sweet!

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

A Mama Daughter Date and Good News on Apartments

Donnie left for a nine day trip to Paris this afternoon. I've been looking forward to this trip as a opportunity to devote my evenings to learning French, but despite my high hopes, I still felt a disoriented and sad after dropping him off. I usually get this feeling when he leaves on a trip, and it usually drives me to watch TV late into the night or take on some half-baked craft project. Anyway, Maria seemed disappointed to be back in the apartment after our hour-long car trip and I didn't want to face leftovers, so we ventured out into our neighborhood to find some dinner.

I'm glad we did. It wasn't until we were seated at Sababa (simple and scrumptuous Israeli food--one of my favorite local places) that I realized I've never gone out for dinner with just Maria before. I think I might need to make a girls night out tradition for whenever Donnie goes on a conference trip. It was a joy to no worry about getting food on the table and to be able to focus on Maria. Maria, for her part, was very well behaved. Yes, she did try to stand up in the high chair--but most of the time, she sat right back down when I asked. I was very proud of how she cleared her plate of rice and lentils (using a grown-up spoon at that) and how she was brave enough to try my stuffed grape leaves. She was very patient, even thought we had to wait pretty long for our food. Sababa has an open kitchen, and she enjoyed watching the kitchen staff at work. The electric knife they use to shave the kabab meat was particularly interesting to her, and she grinned and pointed whenever they used it. The food was delicious and Maria and I even split a piece of apple cake.

I wanted to give little update on Maria's verbal progress. She has begun using a three word phrases like "baby high chair" (pointing out a stack of high chairs in the corner) and "Mama all done" (when I've cleared my plate). There's a conversational aspect to talking with her now, and I'm thoroughly enjoying it. You can tell she wants to tell a story about what she's seeing, and sometimes I'm able to piece together what she wants to say. She's always so happy when we figure it out.

So it turned into a lovely evening. I wish I had my camera. One of the nice things about Sababa is that it has a lot of light and a fresh and airy feeling to it. Maria was also freshly bathed and well turned out, so it would have been nice to get a few photos. So it goes. :)

Another wonderful thing that happened today was that we discovered two very good apartment prospects in France. The timing is very fortunate---Donnie may be able to visit them while he's there. Both of the apartments have land lords who speak English and we've requested and received pictures from both of them. Both of the apartments have some wonderful positives and are in our price range.

One of the apartments was previously occupied by an American family. It turns out that the woman kept a great blog detailing their travels and cultural encounters. The landlord sent a link to the blog. After reading a few entries, I feel as though I've learned quite a lot! They seem to be wonderful travelers (and very socially able people), and it's one of those unexpected boons of living in the information age, that we can benefit from their experience.

Well, my time is up and French is calling!

Friday, June 3, 2011

Breaking Up Camp

I packed up our Easter decorations today. It occurred to me that I won't be seeing them again for at least two and a half years. I made those decorations two years ago, and they were part of an attempt to begin a family tradition. These early years of marriage and motherhood have been about establishing a home life and gathering the tools and trimmings that make that life comfortable and distinctive.

The people we know who are married and have children all seem to be in a homesteading pattern. They've bought houses and are in the process of improving them and adding swing sets to the back yard. They're digging in for the long haul.

And we've been watching them with vicarious joy. My fantasies include putting in raised garden beds and choosing wall paint colors. We pour over each month's This Old House with glee, picking out different projects for what we call "Future House."

But homesteading is not our next phase of life, and I need to switch gears. Now is a time for simplifying, for paring down our earthly chattel and preparing for pleasures of a different kind--meeting new people, seeing new things, taking up newer, lighter hobbies (the sewing machine is not going to France.)